View Full Version : Brakes & Rotors
Slammed
07-02-2009, 05:19 PM
04 Accord EX V6
I think Im going to change them myself....
any tips?
I will try to take pics of my possible fial
bigtoyota479
07-02-2009, 05:55 PM
Piece of cake. Just make sure you use lots of brakleen on the new rotors to rid them of the oily coating they come with. Wouldn't hurt to wipe the pads either. Above all, DO NOT touch the cleaned rotors with your bare hands. You will leave oil on them that will degrade performance.
Also, do you have a hand-driven impact with a large philips head? You will need one to remove the rotors. That, and a c-clamp to compress the pistons in the caliper for the new pads. Use an old brake pad for this.
Other than that, should take you about 1/2 hour per side.
Toasted1
07-02-2009, 08:15 PM
Search for video on changing disc brakes on Google, I read those and had no problem at all after watching it pretty closely.. I believe they are all basically the same at least my 05 and 01 were.
Toasted1
07-02-2009, 08:17 PM
also take pics or a video and post it here and on expertvillage = profit
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:37 PM
Use 300+ grit on rotors to help burnish them faster.
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:38 PM
You need an impact with a phillips head to remove a rotor? I am glad I buy american. They pull right off once you remove the caliper.
bigtoyota479
07-02-2009, 10:40 PM
If they are brand new rotors, no need to use sandpaper. They already come pre burnished from the factory.
Not an air impact, a hand impact. The one you hammer on and it twists for you. They are held on with two #1 or #0 phillips head screws, and unless you use a hammer impact, you will probably strip them.
One of these things, in case I'm not clear enough.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/hand-impact_s.jpg
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:45 PM
If they are brand new rotors, no need to use sandpaper. They already come pre burnished from the factory.
I am going to disagree with the caveat of depending what pads you are using. Hawk Performance brake pads tells you to sand the rotors every time to ensure proper burnishing. I'd suspect if you are buying the $20 pads from autozone, it may not reccomend it.
I have never done brakes to any foreign car besides a Nissan Altima. It makes me glad I don't buy Japanese with their silly ways of attaching a rotor to the hub.
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:46 PM
I see the tool, I just have never had to use one before.
bigtoyota479
07-02-2009, 10:48 PM
It was as much for Slammed as it was for you , brah.
Curious thing, your extra burnishing. I use ceramics on my Civic, and I've never done extra burnishing. Just go easy the first 500 miles, and away you go.
Now, keeping the same rotors, yeah, you need to sand the fuck out of them to break the glaze. But new rotors? Hellz no, because it is fresh metal that has not been hardened by the heat of braking yet.
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:57 PM
It was as much for Slammed as it was for you , brah.
Curious thing, your extra burnishing. I use ceramics on my Civic, and I've never done extra burnishing. Just go easy the first 500 miles, and away you go.
Now, keeping the same rotors, yeah, you need to sand the fuck out of them to break the glaze. But new rotors? Hellz no, because it is fresh metal that has not been hardened by the heat of braking yet.
I see. I just didn't know about those foreign cars.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HWK-HB119Y-594/
They say ferro-carbon, which I suppose is a way to say "semi-metallic". To be honest, I am betting they say to sand to ensure you get all the linseed oil (that shit they coat the rotors with to keep them from rusting) off and super clean.
bigtoyota479
07-02-2009, 10:58 PM
Yeah, probably. However, I have a solvent tank. So I dip them in that first, and scrub the shit out of them. Then I use Brakleen to ditch any residue that's left on them.
:shrug: In the end, it's all the same. Just differs on how we get there. As long as they are clean, and the pads have something to wear in on, you'll be fine.
It's just like breaking in an engine. There are shit tons of different methods, and they all seem to work just fine.
bluecar
07-02-2009, 10:59 PM
I want a parts washer bad when I need it...but I don't do enough mechanic work to really warrent having one.
bigtoyota479
07-02-2009, 11:00 PM
I don't either. It was my dad's, and got moved to my shop when he moved to Seattle. I got an epic shit ton of tools. Everything to rebuild a car, I have in my shop. Except for a lift. I don't have one of those.
bluecar
07-02-2009, 11:03 PM
I don't either. It was my dad's, and got moved to my shop when he moved to Seattle. I got an epic shit ton of tools. Everything to rebuild a car, I have in my shop. Except for a lift. I don't have one of those.
Next house will have a 2 car garage. If I may a rich chick, I will have a shop with a lift. That is much more baller than a pool.
bigtoyota479
07-03-2009, 12:42 AM
FYI, you can pick a decent one up from Harbor Freight for 80 bucks or so. Should be able to swing that, right?
Oh, one more heart attack. The 325 parts cleaning solvent is now like 12 bucks a gallon. Cost me 120 bucks to fill up my solvent tank last time.
Sex Cells
07-03-2009, 01:16 AM
We have one at work and i've always wondered what it was for. All i've known is that the water that comes out smells like shit.
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